Daegu is famed throughout Korea for being a conservative and religious city, a reputation that dates back to the nineteenth century invasion by catholic and protestant missionaries from all over Europe. Take a stroll through the historical district and it won’t be long before you stumble upon a church or two, or three. Ambling curiously through Daegu’s oldest streets, Wonderboy and I had already spent some time in the First Presbyterian Church of Daegu before we arrived at the pretty Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral. I suppose it isn’t very sexy to keep blogging about churches, but what can I do when I continually come across such handsome buildings?
Built in 1903, Our Lady of Lourdes is also known as Gyesan Catholic Church, or simply The Cathedral of Daegu. Just pick the one you like, I won’t hold it against you. It’s every bit as beautiful and solemn inside as you’d expect, so much so that Wonderboy found himself dropping onto one of the wooden pews to deliver a prayer for his late father.
Leaving Wonderboy to his peaceful solitude, I contented myself with exploring the cathedral’s little nooks and crannies and admiring the plentiful art.
Outside the church, there’s a lovely little garden with gnarly old trees, flowerbeds, and benches. A lone statue stands in tribute to Father Paul Robert Achille, a French missionary who designed the cathedral. Achille arrived in Daegu back when being a priest was actually illegal (!) and, having survived a fierce period of persecution, eventually went on to serve Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral for almost thirty years.
Also in the cathedral garden, look out for this cool photo board that captures Daegu locals in feverish excitement during a visit by none other than Pope John Paul II in 1984. I mean seriously, what a rock star!
Walk round to the back of Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral for a very cool photo op that includes the towering form of First Presbyterian Church of Daegu in the background.
Finally, it’d be wasteful not to round off your visit to Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral with a church-side drink at Coffee Myungga. It was impossibly sunny that day, so much so that the old joint seemed to be melting away behind me as I enjoyed my… interesting… Sesame Seed Latte. Yes, there were actual sesame seeds inside!
Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral, or whatever else you want to call it, is free to enter and open daily from 10:00-18:00.
Guest writer John Nguyen shares how finding opportunities in South Korea are available outside of the teaching industry. Follow him on Instagram or send him an email to learn more.
Are you looking for a Non-English teaching job in South Korea? In this article, I will mention a few tips and tricks that will help you with your job hunt! There are a few things you should know before reading further, the Korean job market is no joke and finding a job in South Korea is not easy but through my experience using various job-seeking strategies, I have developed my own know-how. First and foremost, you should prepare all the documents that would help you find a job. For example, if you wanted to enter a marketing company, it would be best if you show any degrees or certificates related to marketing, a portfolio which showcases any of your previous marketing work and because we are looking for a job in Korea, a TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean Language) score. These would be the basic things to prepare in order to prove why they should hire you!
Once you have all the documents prepared the next step is job searching! This is the most difficult part because where can you find all these job postings and which ones are reliable? If you are looking for an internship or a full-time job the best and most accurate website I’ve used is www.hirediversity .kr, they are a company which specializes in helping foreigners find jobs. The best part is all of their information is translated into English! Do keep in mind that some of the jobs require a specific level of Korean proficiency but not all. Below is a list of other sites I’ve used to source job postings:
3. Craigslist Seoul
4. Facebook (Groups such as Non-Teaching Job Seekers Korea or Jobs in Korea)
Thirdly, after you’ve sent in all your applications you wait for the callbacks. Once you land an interview, make sure to prepare an introduction in English, Korean and any other languages they require you to use. Korean Company interviews can last up to 4 or 5 rounds at large corporations, with group interviews, presentations, and team activities. Make sure to know the company well and what activities they are up to, most interview questions will be centered around 2 major topics. Either they will ask you in detail about the company (the specific team or department you will be working in) or they will ask in-depth about the experiences you listed on your resume.
Finally, you got the job offer, congratulations on a job well done! The next step is getting the proper work visa in order to accept the job and start your career in South Korea. The visa process can be quite complicated and time-consuming, try to ask about the visa situation or figure this out during the interview and make sure the company is able to sponsor your visa (unless you already have a valid visa). Many cases of a job offer being rejected are the result of being unable to obtain the proper work visa. I hope that my experiences finding a Non-English Teaching job were helpful, and I wish everyone good luck with their job hunt!
“Mate, I’ve got to take you to Seomun Night Market” hummed Wonderboy, rubbing his hands together, “The food is just….”. I can’t remember exactly what adjective he used but it didn’t matter, I was already sold on the words food and market. After all this was Korea, where the promise of a fine meal is never far away.
Convening one evening with loaded wallets and hungry stomachs, we were joined by one of Wonderboy’s teaching friends Darren, an American who’d only recently recovered from being hospitalized by food poisoning during a trip to Thailand! In for a penny in for a pound, Darren seemed just as keen as us to sample some of Seomun Night Market’s culinary delights.
Seomun Night Market is the biggest traditional street market in Daegu with over four thousand stores. While there’s a focus on textiles, you can find pretty much anything here, it’s just a matter of searching through the logical grid system of lanes and alleys.
Luckily we knew exactly where we were heading so, following the smell of sizzling meat and the sound of derivative soft rock, we were soon working our way through the long row of terraced food stalls. I love how the singer even gives me a little wave.
Wonderboy and Darren had eaten at Seomun Night Market several times before and were keen to give me their recommendations. And I could quickly see that it wasn’t strictly Korean fayre, but plenty of creative fusion dishes and international favourites. Nevertheless, one of the first things I tried was Hotteok, a traditional Korean pancake made from brown sugar, cinnamon, and sesame seeds. Tasty and cheap, I put this down as my first Seomun Night Market win!
Elsewhere, there were giant turkey legs fit for a dinosaur, juicy chunks of sizzling beef stuffed with cheese and some seriously fresh sushi. For the latter, it’s also fun to watch them flame-cooking the beef topping as you wait. No messin’.
The food was all amazing and the beauty of it is that you could come to Seomun Night Market at least a dozen times and not eat the same thing twice. Sadly my memories of the place will always be a little tainted by my regretful misadventures in bag shopping. I was in need of a hefty holdall to get all my stuff home for my upcoming flight from Seoul to London. The bag seemed fine, I even tested it out. But having paid 53000KRW (£35/€40/$44), the handle basically collapsed on me during its maiden voyage from Daegu to Jeonju. In all my years of Asian market shopping this was my first truly duff purchase. But how about those cheese-stuffed burgers?
Seomun Night Market is free to enter and open daily (except Sunday) from 19:00-23:30, with an extended midnight closing on Fridays and Saturdays. The nearest metro stations are Sinman (Line 2) and Seomun Market (Line 3).
This story was originally published on November 6, 2019 for Kcrush Magazine.
The energy of Fashion Week has finally died down worldwide but the buzz over two shows from Seoul Fashion Week lives on. On October 19, 2019, the 2020 Spring/Summer collections proved that retro fashion is still in and making a statement on the runway is just as important as one’s comfort in their clothing. Here, we revisit the final day and highlight the artistry of GREEDILOUS and Graphiste Man.G.
Like any other Fashion Week experience, everyone wants to be seen. You’ve got bonafide celebrities and runway faces everywhere, like Hong Seok-Cheon (who had as many outfit changes as the models themselves… I’m not even mad about it.) and Somali-American Muslim beauty Ridwan (the beauty who Rihanna glammed up during her Fenty Beauty debut in Korea!). Sprinkled around are established, up-and-coming, and aspiring designers; buyers and fashionistas from all corners of the globe, and media attendees trying to capture all the magic. Language barriers are immediately broken with every camera click and new friends are added on social media followings.
I mean that genuinely — it’s serious magic. Where else could a jeans-and-tee girl like me be graced with the presence of Min Jee (Young), Director of Ari Arts Company, draped in head to toe vintage Chanel?!
On Show: GREEDILOUS
Seoul Collection exhibitions take place in the legendary Art Hall 2 within Dongdaemun Design Plaza and placing Park Youn Hee’s show in the middle of schedules was perfection because of how lively it was. GREEDILOUS was once defined by emerging Asian designer collective Porte Mode as carrying it’s designer’s personality and that, “Their bold prints, sleek silhouettes, and surprising details all capture Youn Hee’s youthful and rebellious spirit.” All facts.
Black, white, and muted pastels were the colors of this collection as Moon Gabi opened the show. The silhouettes played between beach-to-street and country club to club VIP. Nothing was too tight yet the fit was loose on each model. It’s hard to imagine and explain, but it worked! Shoulder pads — something we’ve watched become edgier and more pronounced since 2017’s shows — were curved and welcoming to the mid-90s aesthetic. Denim played very little into the designs and I’m still unsure if Lycra was used or not in several outfits. Whatever the textile is or was, many outfits could fit with “Clueless” but without the loudness of some of that era’s patterns. Ms. Park kept things light yet eye-catching with her unique patterns. Almost every person seated in the VIP front row was in a piece from the designer’s various collections, too. Talk about brand loyalty and support!
On Show: Graphiste Man.G
I liked the first show — the pieces whispered, “Look at me but don’t look at me… now look at me!” — but my goodness I. LOVED. THIS. SHOW. Designer Man. G went with the concept “Drag. Drug. Man.g.” and delivered on a show that has to be historic in most South Korean social circles, if not controversial. The brand’s edgy, unisex and animated. Actually, the animated aspect came as little shock once I realized that he studied animation art during his university days. It was sickening and I mean that with all the love I can muster up. The show was unapologetic in its representation and gender-neutrality. The audience was one of the most ambiguous witnessed in all the years we’ve attended Seoul Fashion Week. I wondered about the ages of those in attendance, those secure in their own vibe, and I felt… too “normally” dressed! There were the overtly beautiful, the plain janes, and the flamboyantly unbothered all amongst one another and Man. G’s line fully supported such diversity.
From the moment a hit from pop icon Madonna’s catalog began, the 80s/90s scene exploded onto the runway. Models stomped the plasma out of the runway with various mantras scrolled across the fashions. Everything was a cut that is on-trend. Man. G promoted fashion for anyone, period. Just ask the drag queen who kicked the show off.]]>
It was a brilliantly hot afternoon in Daegu and we’d just finished an enlightening morning finding out about one of Korea’s most loved singers at Kim Kwang-seok Memorial Street. But now, with hopes of discovering a perfect spot for dinner, we’d arrived at Suseong Lake. This is easily the most beautiful area in central Daegu and according to some Suseong is the finest city lake in South Korea.
Suseong Lake is a manmade reservoir created for agricultural use as part of Daegu’s ongoing green initiative efforts. But in recent years it’s become more and more of a tourist attraction, with the introduction of duck-themed paddle boats, an amusement park, bike trails and a boardwalk network for pedestrians.
As we made our way around Suseong Lake that afternoon I had to agree that it was indeed very pretty and not half as busy as we’d been expecting, especially considering the fine weather and the fact that we’d come on a Saturday afternoon.
A small but picturesque park runs along the side of Suseong Lake and, as luck would have it, we’d arrived just in time for a traditional drumming performance. So we settled down on some benches in the large square and watched all the performers putting on their white robes and flowery headdresses.
And then it was underway with a highly impressive rhythmic drumming show delivered by a group of women in blue and white dresses. I later discovered this is known as Pungmul, a tradition rooted in ancient farming culture. It has also been performed as a form of pro-democracy protest!
At the end of the drumming show we started actively seeking out dinner spots. It was to be a special feast that night on Suseong Lake and I wanted everything to be just right. I hadn’t seen my brother in two and a half years, I’d only just met his fiancee Kaley and neither Cory nor Kaley had met Wonderboy. So it felt like a proper celebration was in order! Happily I found exactly what I was looking for with Hoban Restaurant, a lakeside eatery with outdoor decking.
“No smoking, no kids” exclaimed Wonderboy, reading from the entrance sign. “This is my kind place!” The views across Suseong Lake were great, just what we were looking for, while the menu seemed solid, albeit a little pricy.
A truly ridiculous amount of food found its way onto the table that evening, chiefly because we’d underestimated the size of each dish, which could have easily been shared between two people. In any case we all dug into the communal spread, a hearty feast of cheesy pizza, pork cutlets, fried chicken and a mountain range of mixed salad washed down with several rounds of draft beer. We ended up taking a whole bag of fried chicken back to our apartment with a view to having a dirty breakfast the following morning. But of course it all ended up in the trash.
Although startlingly underrated on an international level, Daegu is famed across South Korea for its ancient Buddhist sites, European-style churches, one of the country’s finest city lakes and a reputation as the nation’s so-called coffee capital. But perhaps its biggest draw, domestically at least, is that Daegu is home to Yangnyeongsi, Korea’s oldest traditional medicine market. Dating back to 1658, you can find it right in the heart of the historical district where even today it deals with over half of the country’s herbal trade!
It’s also the place to come for a visit to Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Museum, where I got the chance to a) enjoy a fun, well-presented overview of Daegu’s medicinal history and b) dress up in costume and look like a complete idiot. Needless to say both boxes were emphatically ticked. I think Wonderboy was more than happy to be on the other side of the camera for this one.
Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Museum is spread out over two floors. The first hall presents the market’s early beginnings, through a series of dioramas and touch screens.
You’ll also get to meet the museum’s somewhat silly mascot. We never did find out his name, but he appears to be a walking teapot with a herb sticking out of the side of his head. Nice work if you can get it.
One of my favourite parts of the museum was the highly amusing cartoon about Yangnyeongsi’s very existence being threatened during the Japanese occupation. Any sense of intense drama is wonderfully undone by the cartoon’s plodding pace, clunky animation and a snarling, mustache-stroking bad guy whose unveiled plan to bulldoze through the market and construct a highway is swiftly followed by a cackling “ha ha ha ha ha!!!” that goes on for what feels like several weeks. From start to finish the entire production is brilliantly awful.
On the second floor there’s more of a general “this is how herbal medicine works” shtick, with a full rundown of all the major leaves and their different values.
I also learned that in traditional Korean medicine there are four so-called body types and that, based on my physical condition and eating habits, I’m a “Taeyang” type. Which apparently means I’m “sociable and ambitious”, should pile up on rice and buckwheat and probably lay off the peanuts, white flour and sesame oil. Hmm…
Elsewhere I was able to take my blood pressure for the first time in years and of course dress up in the aforementioned traditional costume before we found ourselves positively swarmed by a local school group.
Amid a hailstorm of chatter and flicked V signs, one boy kept repeating “hometown Daegu, hometown Daegu” over and over, while another told Wonderboy he looked like Jack Black. Eventually their frazzled looking teacher stepped in to drag them away. “You’re so handsome!!!!” cooed one girl, popping her head around the corner before promptly disappearing again. Only in Asia.
Our self-guided tour of Yangnyeongsi Museum of Oriental Museum concluded with a walk through the small shop selling red ginseng tea, ginseng cookies and ginseng chocolate bars.
There’s also a herbal foot spa where you can soak your feet in… yes, you guessed it, more red ginseng. Having been on our feet for the whole day this seemed like an excellent idea, so we paid the required 5000KRW (£3.30/€3.80/$4.20) for a 20-minute soak. The perfect way to cap off a unique day in the Korean city of Daegu!
Yangnyeongsi Museum of Oriental Museum is free to enter and open daily (except Mondays) from 09:00-18:00
Wherever you may be coming from, getting to South Korea’s Maisan Mountain is not a straightforward affair, especially if you’re trying to do it as a day trip. Setting off from the city of Jeonju with my brother Cory and his fiancée Kaley, the first leg of our adventure involved a 25-minute walk to the intercity bus terminal where we caught a one-hour service to the sleepy town of Jinan. The journey took us deep into the mostly unspoiled countryside of Jeollabuk-do Province, providing some great views from the window. After a bit of confusion we ended up jumping off the bus a few stops before Jinan and then walking up to Maisan Provincial Park, the gateway to Maisan Mountain.
It was a solid forty-minute walk from wherever the hell we’d gotten off and at times the going was steep, though we were at least rewarded with ever-improving views of Maisan as we edged closer and closer. Finally we came upon a giant parking lot, a tourist information centre and a pig-themed village where I bypassed all the pork restaurants in favour of some much-needed caffeine.
The resulting latte really hit the spot and the woman was super friendly, babbling away in Korean and not at all put off by the fact that we clearly didn’t understand what she was saying.
From the village it was another fifteen minutes on foot to the entrance of Maisan Mountain through some lovely landscaped gardens.
We also saw plenty of signs for the park’s other attractions, including Jinan History Museum and… bizarrely… Jinan Scissors Museum. Cory begged and begged us to scrap our mountain plan for a dose of scissors-related education, but we had to be firm with him. He’s still trying to come to terms with it.
Along the way we crossed the wooden bridge overlooking a giant reservoir. The mountain’s two peaks felt really close now and for the first time I could see the horse ear resemblance that gave the mountain its nickname. In fact, “Mai” means ear in Korean while “San” (yes you’ve guessed it) translates as mountain.
The trail up Maisan Mountain comprises of several gravelly inclines and a couple of monster wooden staircases. One of these is a 600-step ordeal called The Saddle. This staircase had us regularly pausing to catch our breath, look back at how far we’d progressed and then gaze upwards at the onslaught that awaited. The colors were gorgeous that day and the vibe was peaceful, thanks in no small part to a drumming monk, whose consistent beats echoed through the treetops, encouraging us on our quest.
At the top of The Saddle there’s another almighty staircase to negotiate, though at least this time it’s downhill. Foot traffic got a little busier here, with groups of Korean hikers streaming past us with their walking sticks and North Face jackets. “Hello!”, “How are you?!” etc.
And then we arrived at a large crossroads platform where a variety of hiking trails branched off in several directions.
For us it was straight down again with a further staircase to Eunsusa Temple, an ancient Buddhist structure located at the foot of one of the horse ears. It had already been quite the day, but actually everything we’d experienced so far had been a mere prelude to the main reason we’d come all this way…
I thought I’d seen it all when it came to temples. But deep in the heart of southwestern Korea sits a frankly staggering temple unlike any other. It’s called Tapsa Temple and it had been quite a journey to get here. It began with a bus to the rural outpost of Jinan from the city of Jeonju. From there we embarked on a hike up to Maisan Mountain Provincial Park, followed by a further expedition through the steep, winding trails of Maisan Mountain itself between the horse ear peaks. But at last here we were, gazing out over a unique temple complex born from the singular vision of just one man.
It was here that 25-year-old Yi Gap Yong arrived in 1885 to set up camp and meditate. Over time he became an ordained monk and slowly but surely established Tapsa Temple. Over a period of thirty years Yong carefully built over a hundred stone pagodas to decorate his home and he did everything alone by hand!
Yong spent days and even weeks at a time building each pagoda at Tapsa Temple. It was amazing to be there just taking it all in and trying to imagine what was going through his mind.
The rocks are believed to have come from Maisan Mountain itself and the surrounding forests and streams. Crane your head upwards and you’ll even see baby pagodas constructed in crevices cut into the side of the mountain. I mean, how the hell did he even get up there?
It was busy at Tapsa Temple that day and our general wonderment of the place was curbed somewhat by some highly annoying tourists. But I tried to stay patient and wait for the passing swarms to clear. In some cases, like the incredibly annoying Korean family pictured above, it was tough resisting the urge to snap as they blatantly stood right in front of me as I tried to get my shots and then proceeded to take roughly three thousand variations of the same photo. But hey this is Asia, I really should be used to this by now!
Gradually we made our way up to Tapsa Temple’s main hall, perched dramatically atop a rocky mound and accessed via a stone staircase adorned with colourful lanterns. At the top a narrow balcony provides entrance to the tiny interior, with excellent views back over the grounds we’d come through.
Yi Gap Yong’s greatest achievement stands right at the very top of the Tapsa Temple complex, a further staircase up from the main altar. Here you’ll find two beast pagodas known as the Chun Ji Towers, which translates as heaven and earth. I don’t know how long it took him to build these, but my god I imagine it was quite a while.
Yi Gap Yong was around one hundred years old when he died at Tapsa Temple in 1957. Today you can come and see his incredible legacy at Maisan Mountain. While the mountain park itself is free to enter, you do have to pay a small fee to get into Tapsa. Just go and see the utterly charmless man in the wooden hut and hand over your hard earned Korean Won. He won’t thank you for it.
This is a promoted post of Elancer Cowkorking Space and E=CS153 in Gangnam, South Korea. Visit www.ECS153.com to learn more about the facility and bringing your business to its address.
Plenty of people forget that not every foreigner in South Korea is here on vacation or teaching. Some are here for academic enrichment while others work outside of the field of education. Additionally, for those of us navigating the entrepreneurial sector in South Korea, the speedy Internet connections aren’t the only allure. Networking within tech, retail, and many other industries in between means many meetings all around the major cities of the peninsula. And if an in-person meeting isn’t necessary, the ambiance of a great work environment can break up the monotony of running things from our apartments. Where do we turn to for this? Our local coffee shops, usually. Or, for those with the means, a coworking space.
However, what happens when you’re not a part of a startup incubator that works with foreign-owned businesses? Or, what if you’re more enthusiastic about your grasp of the Korean language when at the norebang — what about worrying that you’ll be that person in the coworking space who can’t communicate? It’s enough to make you hold your local latte mug a little closer. This certainly wasn’t a concern at ECS153.
Recently, I scheduled a weekday visit to new coworking space ECS153 to not only get out of my studio apartment but also away from the coffee shops I frequent within my area. Located within Gangnam on the 11th floor of a towering building, I was immediately impressed with the expanse of the facility. Not only is it located on the 11th floor, but it is also the entire 11th floor. The entrance is secured by keypad, providing guests with the assurance that their work is just as valued as they are. Upon entry, team members welcomed me and others entering with enthusiasm and interest in being of assistance.
I was greeted by Alexandra, a Community Manager, and ushered over to ECS153’s lounge area for refreshments. A spread of coffees, teas, and other refreshments were available to all guests, just one of many awesome perks included with membership. Although bustling with meetings and work, the atmosphere was relaxing and exuded genuine care. This wasn’t a happy coincidence either — ECS153’s founder Park Woo Jin (Loyd) was intentional about the aesthetics of the facility. From the spacing of each glass-paned section of offices and the unique light fixtures to the names of the conference rooms and the whimsical artworks (any Tin Tin fans? You’ll love a piece in the entryway), Loyd insisted on creating spaces that inspire and energize the diverse entrepreneurs who call ECS153 home.
Diversity was not only reflected in the types of businesses at ECS153 but within the teams and company owners themselves. Within the span of my working visit, I saw, met and even popped into the office of professionals from all over the world. One professional kindly chatted with me in English and Korean about the beautiful view of metro-Seoul from her exterior office windows and her beautiful computer monitor! (Seriously, that thing was the stuff of dreams.) Everyone was able to communicate in a multilingual manner and ready to engage with you in your first, second, or even third language. The domestic and international balance at ECS153 worked so organically that it put a huge smile on my face.
I hope to get a few more visits under my belt to ECS153. Maybe I’ll see you there next time?
The Korean city of Daegu is blessed with a number of local mountain ranges and a seemingly infinite array of hiking options. Some of the most popular routes can be found in and around Apsan Mountain, a 1968-foot peak towering over southern Daegu. This is where Wonderboy, my brother Cory, his fiancée Kaley and I headed on an overcast Sunday morning to get the blood pumping and… you know… connect with nature and shit.
Prior to my Daegu trip I had romanticized about doing a solid chunk of hiking. But alas my motley crew of associates were not feeling the Apsan love that day. Wonderboy has a generally screwed ankle and Cory and Kaley were channeling a special brand of knackered you’d expect to see after an all-night drinking session. In all fairness, we’d already been walking for well over an hour just to get to the start of Apsan’s mountain trails. So when we arrived at Apsan Cable Car Station a brief conference was held and I resigned myself to the fact that we’d be taking the fast track route up to Apsan Observatory.
Apsan Observatory has two levels, one attached to the side of a restaurant (the food looked pretty decent) and a giant, top o’ the rock style platform accessed via a set of stairs. The views were, of course, wondrous and this, along with a decent cup of coffee, had woken everyone up and lifted our spirits. Until that is, moments after the above photo was taken, a giant flying monster thing flew into Cory and bit him on the arm. Yikes!
From Apsan Observatory you can do a short one-kilometer trail up to Apsan Mountain’s highest point. It’s very easy going, no special equipment required, though of course, that doesn’t stop all the Korean climbers from dressing up like they’re about to try and scale Mount Everest. One thing’s for sure, hiking is a serious business for locals!
It’s a really pretty walk, with verdant bushes, wildflowers, and some fantastic cherry blossom trees. For lovers, a postcard-perfect swing set beneath the trees is a popular photo spot, so much so that there’s often a queue.
At the very top, there’s a small, rocky platform from which you can look back down over Apsan Observatory. The platform is actually part of the ruins of Daegu Fortress, a horse’s-foot-shaped- battlement that back in the day ran for 3 kilometres along the peaks and ridges of the mountain. All in all, it was a decent introduction to the delights of Apsan Mountain and a fine sendoff for Cory and Kaley, who had an afternoon train to catch back to Jeonju.